Wednesday 19 October 2011

Catwalk OR Art-walk?

Last week's "Deconstructing Couture Study Day" organized by the Costume Society at the London College of Fashion proved so inspirational to me! There were a great range of guest speakers, but i have to admit that Timothy Long, Curator of Costumes at the Chicago History Museum and Brigitte Stepputtis, Head of Couture at Vivienne Westwood, got my full attention. Not only made the audience realize how much the relationship between couturier and client has changed over the years, but also gave us a clear image on fashion's commercial impact.

Have you ever thought how the structure - in terms of place & spectacle -  of a fashion show or  a catwalk has changed over the years? Once, the models were able to walk among the audience in a fashion designer's private salon and the clients were even able to touch the dresses and feel their texture & fabric. Nowadays, things are completely different; fashion catwalks look more and more like museums' live exhibitions. Huge productions and great amounts of money are spend in order to create the "ultimate" fashion show, in a way that the other day no one speaks about the clothes, but everyone has something to say about the "fabulous" settings and spectacles.

I am not going to give you a strict chronological sequence of fashion shows. I will only try to point out the ones that, in my opinion, are the most relevant and, at the same time, obvious examples of this new growing trend.
PARIS—A Christian Dior fashion show, 1957.
© Henri Cartier-Bresson / Magnum Photos


left: Victor & Rolf "bedtime stories" collection, fall 2005 RTW
right: miniature porcelain dolls from V&R exhibition at the Barbican Art Gallery in London (2008)

Fendi fashion show @ the Great Wall of China, fall/winter 2007-2008 collection
Regarding the above fashion show, Fendi chief executive Michael Burke declared “This is about positioning Fendi for the next 50 years. This is not a Chinese event; it’s a world event.” 

Chanel fall 2010 RTW fashion show
Chanel's fall 2010 Ready-To-Wear fashion show at the Grand Palais Paris was actually arranged around a huge 256 tons of iceberg imported from northern Sweden.
Louis Vuitton's carousel @ spring 2012 RTW fashion show
And i will close my brief, but "straight-to-the-point" post with a video that can also be described as fashion show/catwalk and at the same time art exhibition or installation, also known as "the russian doll" from the always pioneer designers Victor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf fall/winter women haute couture 1999-2000





Wednesday 12 October 2011

"Once"... in Ireland!

A few days ago i watched "Once" (2006) and that brought me memories from my trip to Ireland a year ago. Since, i didn't had a blog back then, i think that this is the appropriate time to share with you my experience and, at the same time, recommend "Once" as one of my latest "must-to-be-seen" movies.

me & my brother at St. Stephen's Green Park
As you already understood, i made this trip with my beloved little brother (well, not that "little", but i like call him like this!). An in order to meet his "second" character have a look at the follow picture, which is just adorable - at least from my point of view!

Vagelis eating "evil" chicken-wings @ "Elephant Castle" restaurant

"Once" is a 2006 Irish (a kind of musical) film written and directed by John Carney. Set in Dublin, this naturalistic drama stars musicians Glen Hansard (of popular Irish folk rock band "The Frames") and Marketa  Irglová as musicians. Collaborators prior to making the film, Hansard and Irglová composed and performed all of the original songs in the movie.


Shot for only €130,000 the film was more than successful. It received enthusiastic reviews and awards such as the 2007 Independent Spirit Award for best foreign film. Hansard and Irglová's song "Falling Slowlly" received a 2007 Academy Award for Best Original Song and the soundtrack as a whole also received a Grammy nomination.

Once spent years in development with the Irish Film Board. It was during a period where the film board had no chief executive (for about 6 months) that the film was given the go-ahead by a lower level executive on the proviso that the producers could make it on a budget of approximately 150,000 euros and not the initial higher budget.


Neither of the two leads was a trained or experienced actor; Hansard and Irglová are both professional musicians. Director Carney, former bassist for Hansard's band "The Frames", had asked his long-time friend to share busker anecdotes and compose songs for the film, but had intended the male lead to be played by actor Cillian Murphy, who was an almost-signed rock musician before turning to acting. Murphy was also going to be one of the film's producers. But Murphy declined the prospect of acting opposite non-actor Irglová (then 17 years old!) and also felt that he hadn't the vocal capabilities to belt out Hansard's octave-leaping songs, so he pulled out, as did the film's other producers along with their financial resources. 
me @ St. Stephen's Green Park
Produced with a shoestring budget, about 75% of the budget was funded by Bord Scannán na hÉireann (The Irish Film Board), plus some of Carney's own money. The director gave his salary to the two stars, and promised a share of the back-end for everyone if the film was a success. Shot with a skeleton crew on a 17-day shoot, the filmmakers saved money by using natural light and shooting at friends' houses. The musical party scene was filmed in Hansard's own flat, with his personal friends playing the partygoers/musicians - his mother, Catherine Hansard, is briefly featured singing solo. The Dublin street scenes were recorded without permits and with a long lens so that many passersby didn't even realize that a film was being made. The long lens also helped the non-professional actors relax and forget about the camera, and some of the dialogue ended up being improvised. During the shoot, Carney had predicted a romance. Hansard and Irglová did become a couple in real life, getting together while on a promotional tour across North America, and living together in Dublin, in Hansard's flat. Subsequently, Hansard indicated that that they were no longer a romantic couple. He said, "Of course, we fell into each other's arms. It was a very necessary part of our friendship but I think we both concluded that that wasn't what we really wanted to do. So we're not together now. We are just really good friends."
I am not going to tell you anything about the plot of the movie! I already gave you the trailer and a lot of "trivia" stuff, in order to persuade you to watch this film. Of course, i didn't make a whole trip to Ireland because of "Once"! No, there is nothing wrong with this movie; actually, another Ireland-related movie made pay a visit to that wonderful place. I am referring to the ultimate love story "P.S. i love you". Don't freak out, i will not tell you the story, in order to avoid making you cry. I will only share with you a few more wonderful pictures!
Northern Ireland: Rope Bribge, Carrick-a-Rede
me @ the Rope Bridge, Carrick-a-Rede
me @ the Giant's Causeway
The Cliffs of Moher
Galway Bay
And because this post is also related to the wonderful Irish music, i am a kind of obliged to post the following song, which title is based on the above photo. This for you "P.S. i live you" funs!

An of course, i visited Wicklow Mountains and walked through that huge national park that Holy (Hilary Swank) got lost and met Gerry (Gerard Butler). Did you also know that at the same park was Braveheart's battleground? Actually, "Braveheart" refers to William Wallace, a 13th century Scottish Knight who gained recognition when he came to the forefront of the First War of Scottish Independence, and despite the fact that the crew spent six weeks shooting on location in Scotland, the major battle scenes were shot in Ireland using members of the Irish Army Reserve as extras. 

Still from "Braveheart" (1995), starring Mel Gibson.
I also visited "Kilmainham Gaol"; a former prison, located in Kilmainham in Dublin, which is now a museum. It has been run since the mid-1980s by the Office of Public Works (O.P.W.), an Irish Goverment agency. Kilmainham Gaol played an important part in Irish history, as many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned and some executed in the prison by the British and latterly in 1923 by the Irish Free State. "In the Name of my Father" (1993) and "The Italian Job" (1969) are only 2 of the 9 movies that filmed in this particular prison.

Still from "In the Name of my Father" (1993), starring Daniel Day Lewis.
Still from "The Italian Job" (1969)

Wednesday 5 October 2011

Cult Vs Porno

_OR a tribute to Stanley Kubric's "A Clockwork Orange" film!

Even today, the films of the ‘70s have remarkable dynamics and astonishing potency, due to their “new” truthfulness and, of course, because of their commercial impact. The «New Hollywood», as many have characterized that decade, was the best response to a period (1960’s) described by Hans C. Bluemenberg as «the most dismal and boring decade» in the history of the cinema. Moreover, the ‘70s present great interest in more than one fields. In social terms it was a time of unprecedented freedoms, as many felt they lived through a kind of revolution and looked for a way to escape reality. Politically, the War in Vietnam, the Watergate Scandal and the Flower Power Movement with its protests led cinema to look into the causes and the effects of this situation in a series of incomparable films. Regarding fashion it can be best defined by the phrase: “Free your mind and the clothes will follow”. At a quick glance, obviously the 1970’s is an interesting and promising period, in more than one ways. However, in this post i would like to look at how the sexual revolution affected the film industry, in relation to the fashion details and messages passed through its costume and decorative detail. Moreover, i will try to express my point of view on how thin the line between art and pornography can be and why movies with that kind of content are controversial and extremely rare even today. 

Still from A Clockwork Orange (1971): "The Jesus can-can"
The ‘70s were the decade of “scandal films”. Movies like Bertolucci’s Last Tango in ParisPier Paolo Pasolini’s SaloStanley Kubrick’s Clockwork OrangeNagisha Oshima’s L’Empire des Sens” and others with less sex scenes but still with sexual identity theme like La Cage aux FallesFellini’s RomaThe Rocky Horror Picture Show, etc. are the most distinctive ones. Of course, we also have to consider and evaluate these films under the political, the social-economic and the fashion perspectives, in order to be in place to express a complete review. Subsequently, comes the hardest part: the distinction between art filmmaking and pornographic context movies. Last of all, it sounds interesting to compare those classic movies with equivalent modern ones. Movies like Requiem for a dreamIrreversibleEyes Wide ShutAlmodovar’s Bad Education and All About my Mother are only a few that could approach ‘70s classic movies, not only for they content and script, but also for their direction and deliberate execution.


"A Clockwork Orange" (1962) book cover

As you may already understood, i am not going to do a comprehensive analysis on all the movies mentioned above. I would like to focus my post on the "A Clockwork Orange" movie, as -apart from my favorite film- is also one of the key-cult movies of the '70s and certainly the most controversial


First of all, i have to mention that it is a novella written by Anthony Burgess in 1962. "A Clockwork Orange" book featured futuristic street gangs based on the Teddy Boys, the Mods and the Rockers who where fighting on the beaches of England during the late 1950s and the early 1960s: Burgess had observed that between the ages of 10 and 23 youths indulge their desires for fornication, violence, stealing, drugs and other vices.

"A Clockwork Orange" (1971) movie poster
When Kubrick first read the book, he rejected it as a film project because he thought that “it would be too difficult for people to understand it”. When he finally decided to adapt the book (the American edition - missing the last chapter) he followed the book very closely, word-by-word. According to Kubrick book's and, of course, film's message is that: “It is necessary for man to have choice to be good or evil, even if he chooses evil. To deprive him of this choice is to make him something less than human – a clockwork orange”. 

Unfortunately, when the movie initially released, the result was there were copycat incidents of ultra-violence, where people said: “the film had made them do awful things”. Of course, this is nonsense, because every person has free will, which was the point of the film, but the press did their best to exploit the story. Kubrick tried to defend himself: “ To try to fasten any responsibility on art as the cause of life seems to me to put the case the wrong way around. Art consists on reshaping life but it does not create life, nor cause life. […] even after deep hypnosis, in a posthypnotic state, people cannot be made to do things which are at odds with their natures”. However, his arguments had no effect and this is the reason why he decided to stop the film by preventing it from being shown in the UK. "A Clockwork Orange" film was not available for public viewing in the UK from 1974 until 2000, after Kubrick’s death. As a result, Kubrick maximized film’s return by creating a database and only showing the film in cinemas where that type of film generated large grosses. A strategy that earned the film $ 40 million on a $ 2 million investment!



“Moloko Vellocet”: Alex and his friends prepare for some ultra-violence.
For me, "A Clockwork Orange" it is not just a movie; it is an art masterpiece, carefully made from all aspectsdirection, adaptation, acting, photography, lighting, art direction, costume design & styling. It is not a rambling film and it doesn’t contain unnecessary scenes. Actually,  Kubrick’s word-by-word adaptation offers as a complete film, without discontinuities or inconsistencies from the original book. In this particular movie, its element is there for a reason; for example Alex’s cufflinks are a set of artificial eyeballs – every criminal act committed by his hands is witnessed by these symbolic onlookers.

Still from "A Clockwork Orange" (1971) film
Alex's cufflinks
Kubrick uses all cinematic means available to give us an authentic representation of Alex’s world. He is attempting not only to show us, but also to make us feel what violence looks like from inside. In a shocking way it makes us all share the responsibility for all the things it shows.

Alex and his friends attack writer Frank Alexander. 
Moreover, it is hard to think of another film that assigns us the role of voyeur so effectively. On the above scene, Alex and his friends attack writer Frank Alexander and force him to watch as Alex beats and rapes his wife, while singing “Singin’ in the Rain”. This scene is  based on a tragic incident during the World War 2, when Burgess’ first wife was attacked by four American deserters, which caused her to miscarry. Her resulting depression led to a suicide attempt. Writing the book was Burgess’ way of getting rid of all the hate.

“The cat lady & The giant phallus” 
Alex uses a giant stone phallus, a sculpture which is actually "life petrified into art", to kill a woman and he is abandoned by his friends, who leave him for the police.  

"The Ludovico Treatment"
To shorten his prison sentence Alex agrees to undergo the "Ludovico Treatment" (a method based on Ivan Pavlov's famous experiments) where he is forced to watch horrible images accompanied by beautiful music – actually, his favorite music of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. In this point i have to add that the film is also about the power of music and the ecstasy of a human being whose individuality dissolves in the experience of music. For Alex, Beethoven is an ideal representation of a creative genius. Then Alex is publicly tested in front of the press and the government minister and released into the world.

"Funny Games" (2007) movie poster
Undoubtedly, "A Clockwork Orange" film left a huge legacy in more that one ways. Apart from a diachronic film, which can be arguably competing with a large number of relevant contemporary films, it is also a film far ahead from its period


"Funny Games" (2007) is a contemporary movie with clear references to Kubrick's movie. Not only the costumes, which are obviously affected by the "Clockwork Orange", but also the whole way or direction. Once again, movie's purpose is to make us feel what violence looks like from inside and, also, to make us all share the responsibility for all the things it shows. 
(note: In this point i have to thank Drue Bisley for her really relevant observation!)

Last of all, we cannot ignore the affect that the "Clockwork Orange's" style had and how people copied Alex's unique style. In this point, it also crucial to mention the film's Costume Designer; Milena Canonero not only introduced to the world of cinema through this movie (which was her first one!), but also managed to establish herself! Just for the record, i would like to add that Canonero is also the Costume Designer in a series of other important films such as: "Barry Lyndon" (1975), "Midnight Express" (1978), "The Shining" (1980), "The Cotton Club" (1984), "Marie Antoinette" (2006), etc.


L' UOMO VOGUE Editorial: "A Clockwork Orange", by Max Vandukul 

Christina Aguilera channels her inner "Clockwork Orange"
Mischa Burton in a total "Clockwork Orange" look
"Viddy well, little brother, viddy well."